A one day tour of Barrow is all you need to get to know this little village and the people who fondly call it home. Alaska Airlines and Ravn Airlines are the two commercial airline companies that will get you here. The airport was renamed Wiley Post–Will Rogers Memorial Airport after the plane crash and death of both men about 15 miles away.
Taking a left out of the exit door of the airport, you can see a signpost across the muddy dirt and gravel street. It points in various directions to other countries, listing the mileage to each one.
A granite memorial was built in the same corner lot beside the signpost. The Will Rogers and Wiley Post Monument honors the humorist and the pilot, who died together in a 1935 air crash nearby. Will Rogers is widely known in Texas, since he was an Oklahoma boy, and Wiley Post was born in Texas. They were very far from home.
The famous spot for taking a picture to prove you made it to Barrow (like the southern most buoy in Key West) is overlooking the Arctic Ocean by the Top of the World Hotel. This Whale Bone Arch symbolizes the village’s relationship with the ocean and whaling.
Right beside the expensive grocery store that I wrote about here, stands a building with a large cultural exhibit hall and a library. The Iñupiat Heritage Center traces the history and culture of the area’s indigenous people. It tells about the history of whaling and how they continue hunting bowhead whales each spring and fall. We were lucky enough to arrive in time for the motion dancer performance. One guy sings with a drum and the girls mimic sawing, rowing, swimming or whatever he is singing about in their Iñupiat language.
It was very interesting to read about the distance they travel on ice, how they set up camp, who receives the different sections of the whale for subsistence, and the festivals that they hold each year.
Once we got an idea of the harpooning process, I was surprised to see proof that their traditions were still alive. This wood framed boat covered in a walrus or seal skin was sitting in a yard waiting for winter to arrive.
As we drove around, we spotted lots of homemade wooden sleds. These are used to transport whale camp necessities over the frozen ocean and they also carry any food harvest after a kill.
The town is only 20 square miles, so you can see all of it in a few hours. Driving out of town past the airport, you will come across one of three cemeteries, and possibly more. This is the largest one we saw and it was covered with puddles of water.
Another recorded Iñupiaq name for the town is Ukpiaġvik, which comes from ukpik “snowy owl” and translates to “the place where snowy owls are hunted.” We didn’t see any owls but we found one on a sign near the site of the original sod houses from long ago.
Also in this area was a boardwalk leading out to a monument overlooking the beach. The silver sculpture was attached to a bench and it was dedicated to a female pilot and her mother who died when their plane crashed.
During our travels in Alaska we have noticed cars with a plug hanging out of the front grill. We didn’t think much about it until we saw rows of power cords in front of businesses, offices, and hotels here. Apparently, during the sub zero winter months, you need to plug in your car to keep the block from freezing while you are at work or running errands.
All around the village we saw proof of their rich hunting heritage. They must do it for survival during the harsh winters because barges cannot bring food when the ocean is iced over. Skins from fox and bear were hanging in various places.
Whale bones could be seen everywhere. It really makes you think how easy your life can be in the lower 48 states compared to living on tundra.
Like I said in my last post, I’m glad we got to see Barrow. I would recommend taking the earliest flight, looking around, and hopping on the last flight out. The restaurant in the Top of the World Hotel serves good food if you have time for a sit down meal.